To build a shower cubicleyou start with the shower tray. Many people attempt to make one of thesethemselves by building a box that they cover with some impervious material usually tiles. However, the construction is not easy because making the boxabsolutely waterproof can present problems, and then it is difficult to get theright gradient from every part of the tray to carry water to the waste outlet.On the whole, you would do better to buy a tray.
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Normally, trays are made inacrylic plastic or glazed ceramics. The latter are dearer, but muchlonger-lasting, as acrylics can crack. Both types are available in standardsanitary-ware colours, so if you have a modern coloured bathroom suite, youshould be able to match it. Trays come in a range of sizes, so be sure tochoose one to fit the space you have, since obviously the size of tray governsthe area your installation will take up. Ceramic trays can also be very heavyso its likely youll need help to get one into position.
The tray will have a wasteoutlet, and this may be in one corner, or in the middle of one side. It must besited so that its waste pipe can discharge conveniently into a hopper of atwo-pipe system, or be connected up to an existing waste pipe, or to the mainstack of a single-pipe system. The waste pipe must slope downwards all the way,and it is important to get the fall right in order to drain water awayefficiently. In general, the fall should be between 6 and 50mm per 300mm run ofpipe (1/4 to 2in per ft) depending on the length of the run (measured from theactual waste outlet). Too steep a run can produce a siphonage effect that willdrain the water out of the trap, thus depriving your home of its protectionfrom drain smells. Its a good idea to set a fall of 25mm (1 in) per 300mm fora short run of say 600 to 900mm (2 to 3ft), but only a 12mm (1n) tall wherethe run will be 3 to 4.5m (10 to l5ft).
Most shower trays aresquare, and obviously these can be turned round to place the outlet in the mostconvenient position. However, for installation in a corner, triangular shapedtrays, or quadrants with two straight sides at right angles and a curvedfront are on sale, but theyre quite expensive.
The outlet does not have aplug, because it is never the intention that the tray should be filled up.Since there is no plug, no overflow is required. However, like all yourbathroom fittings, it must have a trap. This should be 38mm (1 l/2n) indiameter but, like a bath, does not have to be of the deep-seal variety.
Some trays are designed tohave enough depth to enable the trap to be installed above floor level. Othersare quite shallow, and the trap must go under the floor, a point to bear inmind if you have a concrete floor.
Yet another possibility isto mount the tray on supports, to raise its height, and some manufacturers sellspecial supports to raise the tray off the ground. Otherwise you can use bricksor timber, suitably disguised by a plinth. Its a good idea to provide aninspection panel should you ever want to get access to the plumbing. Whateverthe case, you will never have good access to the outlet plumbing after itsbeen installed so be sure to make a good job of it.
Providing a cubicle
A shower tray is bestpositioned in a corner, so that two sides of the shower enclosure are alreadyprovided by the shower tray itself; you can bridge the gap with timber coveredwith tiles set flush with the top of the tray.
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